The terrace that houses Balmain’s Chinese Herbal Centre has a secret tearoom on its first floor. Here’s what to expect when you climb the stairs.
It would be disingenuous to call Max Chen a mere purveyor of tea. The founder of Cha is Tea (cha being the Chinese word for ‘tea’) is more like an ambassador than a businessman.
The long-time tea lover was a salesman in his native China before he moved his family to Australia to give his daughter a better education. But even in his previous life he realised he loved tea more than his occupation, so when he arrived in Sydney he decided to make tea his calling.
“It’s a kind of dream life for me,” he says of the change. “You can make a different friend at the tea table, listening to their story.”
While Australia has a long history of British-style tea culture, Chen still sees a big gap in the market for Chinese-style tea in Australia, especially those who don’t have Asian heritage. British-style tea is either a teabag in a cup or loose-leaf tea in a big teapot, whereas the Chinese-style tea culture Chen wants to share, called gongfu cha, comprises a lot of tea leaves in a small teapot or gaiwan (lidded cup) that brews many infusions. A session thus becomes a journey of the palate as the tea changes across iterations.
“When you’re drinking tea, you’re not only drinking tea – the whole process is very relaxed and very good for mental health,” says Chen, acknowledging that this slow-paced method means tea becomes more than a beverage. “Drinking tea is a conversation, it’s about connecting with yourself.”
The Balmain tearoom shares its address with the Chinese Herbal Centre, which is owned by Chen’s friend. He says it’s ideal in many ways: not too far from the city but in a terrace house that’s “quiet and very comfortable for people to come here and relax”.
If you’re new to Chinese tea, Cha is Tea offers free tea tastings where Chen will select three beginner-friendly types from his range of more than 150 and brew them for you, so you can get a sense of different flavours, what you like and don’t like. “Drinking tea is like a trip, like a journey. Everyone is different,” he affirms.
His favourite tea, however, requires a more advanced palate; it’s called hongyun, from a subcategory known as rock oolong. Grown in the Wuyi Mountains of China’s Fujian province, this roasted semi-oxidised tea is known for its floral aroma, mineral character and full body. Though it’s rarely offered to newcomers to Chinese tea, it’s clear that Chen wants to share it with more people, hence the invitation to start your tea journey with a tasting. “I want to fix that gap,” he says.
Cha is Tea is upstairs at 334 Darling Street, Balmain, most Tuesdays. Make an appointment with Max Chen (0421 887 285) for a free tea tasting.
How to make tea
You don’t need fancy gear, just bear these principles in mind.
1. Tea to water ratio: This determines the strength of the tea – a higher amount of tea compared to water will make a stronger brew.
2. Water temperature: Different tea types have ideal temperatures to extract certain flavour notes. Green tea, for example, often enjoys a lower water temperature (around 80-85ºC) to avoid bitter notes.
3. Time: The length of your brew time also determines the flavours that emerge; too short and you get colour with little flavour, but too long and you’ll get astringency on the palate.
While British-style tea uses a low tea:water ratio, high water temperature and a long steep time (and maybe one re-infusion), gongfu cha uses a high tea:water ratio, high water temperature and a short steep time for many re-infusions.
This article was first published in 2041 Balmain on 22 December 2025.